Collection: FAQ

All steps must be relatively level and free from nails, screws, staples and any major cracks as well as clean, dry and without any residual paints, oils, rust, grease, other floor coverings, glues or anything else that would not allow the new treads to lay flat and make full contact with the steps below.

Each product pages lists the most appropriate adhesive to use for that particular product. In general, however, general, water-based, adhesives are ideal for environments where the smell could be an issue while contact cements best for constantly trafficked areas where the stairs can only be taken out of commission for a few hours. Other glues are designed for special use (stair tread noses, to meet certain government ratings, moist areas, etc.). The pros, cons and limitations are outlined in the description on each adhesive product page.

Vinyl and rubber treads can easily be trimmed in the field to ensure that each tread properly fits each step in its width (side to side) as well as its depth (front to back). Using a straight edge or T-Square will allow for easy trimming with a sharp blade in a razor (utility) knife or even a linoleum knife. If possible, the back of the tread should be cut with an underbevel for the best fit.

There is no need for stair treads to go to the back of the stair where it connects with the riser. Virtually all foot traffic travels across the first few inches when descending stairs and usually the first 6-8" while ascending steps. Plus, with vinyl and rubber treads, the high/low textured pattern does not continue all the way to the back of the tread. Thus, if the tread is not deep enough to reach the back of the stair it won't greatly affect the function. On the other hand, if the treads are deeper than the step (as they often are) then you can easily cut the treads down as described in the question above).

Although it's not at all uncommon to find both vinyl and rubber treads being used outside, even without any covering or awning above them, the elements can potentially cause these materials to wear down quicker than if they were placed indoors with the same amount of foot traffic.

Without using an epoxy stair tread nose caulk a void is left between the nose of the stair and the stair tread and, with years of abuse and thousands and thousands of feet bouncing off the stairs, the nose of the tread can get stretched out and eventually crack. A small, simple bead of nose caulk on the underside of the nose of the tread will directly address and help prevent the stretching and cracking.

Absolutely! We're happy to send out free color swatch samples so customers can get a good understanding of what they're buying before purchasing. Feel free to contact us with your address and we'll get the samples right out to you.